Part of a 14-panel panorama etching of 17th-century buildings in St. Petersburg, Russia

The St. Petersburg Environs

Tsarskoe Selo

In May 1844, Maxwell took Anna Whistler, Debo, James, and Willie to Tsarskoe Selo to visit Colonel Todd. In 1846, Anna Whistler, James, and Willie went there to see the monument to the deceased Grand Duchess Aleksandra Nikolaevna and also visited the Arsenal.

Image 383

The Whistlers rode on the St. Petersburg–Tsarskoe Selo–Pavlovsk Railway when they visited Colonel Todd in May 1844.

Steam train on tracks running from centre right to bottom left; station edge on left; crowd on both sides of tracks; canal running up right side of painting with a tree beside it on the very right edge
Karl Petrovich Beggrov (1799–1875). Train of the Tsarskoye Selo Railway. 1840s. Watercolor on paper. 9.5 x 14 cm. State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg (ERG-20092).

Image 384

The Pleasure Garden at Pavlovsk, the terminus of the St. Petersburg–Tsarskoe Selo–Pavlovsk Railway, which Anna Whistler, James, and Willie visited while being entertained by Colonel Todd in May 1844

building in centre back, with circular veranda with railing and people in front, above a garden centre and right
C. Schultz. Pleasure Garden in Pavlovsk. c. 1845. Lithograph from an original by Johann Jacob Meyer (1787–1858). (Meyer, Vues pittoresque des palais) [full resolution image]

Image 385

The west façade of the Great Tsarskoe Selo (Catherine) Palace

Great Tsarskoe Selo Palace
Vasilii Sadovnikov (1800–1879). The West Façade of the Great Palace. 1860. Watercolor on paper. Depository of the Tsarskoe Selo Palace–Museums. [full resolution image]

Image 386

The Lyon Drawing Room in the Great Tsarskoe Selo (Catherine) Palace, with its lapis lazuli ornamentation and yellow silk wall hanging

Lyon Drawing room with gilt wall paper and crystal chandelier
Luigi Premazzi (1814–1891). The Lyon Drawing Room in the Great Palace at Tsarskoe Selo. 1878. Watercolor on paper. Depository of the Tsarskoe Selo Palace–Museums.
[full resolution image]

Image 387

Catherine the Great’s “snuffbox” room in the Great Tsarskoe Selo (Catherine) Palace

Blue Cabinet with blue and white and gilt decoration and a blue sofa
Vladimir Ivanovich (Woldemar) Hau (1816–1895). Blue Cabinet called The Snuffbox. Watercolor. Depository of the Tsarskoe Selo Palace–Museums. (L.W. Bardowskaja and G.D. Chodassewitch, Deutsche Prinzessinnen auf Russischem Thron: Schätze aus Zarskoje Selo, der Sommerresidenz bei St. Petersburg [German Princesses on the Russian Throne: Treasures from Tsarskoye Selo, the Summer Residence near St. Petersburg] (Berlin: Kulturstiftung Schloß Britz, 1992), p. 6) [full resolution image]

Image 388

The Alexander Palace, where the family of Nicholas I lived and his daughter Grand Duchess Aleksandra Nikolaevna died in August 1844

The Alexander Palace with a lake in front with two swans
C. Schultz. The Palace of Alexandre at Tzarskoé-sélo. c. 1820. Lithograph in black with second fawn tint stone on ivory wove paper; after J. Meyer. Image: 24.6 × 35.4 cm; sheet: 40.1 × 57 cm. Art Institute of Chicago (1960.694); gift of Ralph Horween.

Images 389, 390

The Great Chinese Bridge with its lifelike figures that appealed greatly to James and Willie

The arch of the Great Chinese Bridge, showing the backs of the Chinese servant statues holding the lanterns
The Great Chinese Bridge. Photograph. Early 1900s. (Pamiatniki arkhitektury prigorodov Leningrada, p. 114) [full resolution image]
(Note: The citation in the pdf version is in error. This is the correct information.)
Statue of a Chinese man holding a lantern on the Great Chinese Bridge
Figure of a Chinese man: Detail from the Chinese Bridge. Photograph. Early 1900s. (Pamiatniki arkhitektury prigorodov Leningrada, p. 115) [full resolution image]

Image 391

Anna Whistler and members of her family visited the Arsenal in Tsarskoe Selo in the summer of 1846.

Four-towered building with crenelated towers and arched windows
The Arsenal in Tsarskoe Selo. 1860. (Gille, Tsarskosel’skii muzei, frontispiece)
[full resolution image]

Image 392

The coat-of-arms gallery on the upper floor of the Arsenal

Mannequins of five horses with accoutrements, an empty table and chairs centre; a small cannon front right; people looking at the displays: three in back, a man and woman in early Victorian dress centre mid-field
The Upper Floor Gallery in the Arsenal at Tsarskoe Selo. 1830. Archive of A. Menelas, Depository of the Tsarskoe Selo Palace–Museums. [full resolution image]

Image 393

Tipoo Sahib’s saddle in the Arsenal at Tsarskoe Selo

silver saddle with a pommel shaped like a bird's head; red fabric and leather
Saddle Belonging to Tipoo Sahib in the Arsenal at Tsarskoe Selo. State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg (ORDF-OP-1-20). Photograph © The State Hermitage Museum.

Image 394

Lock and key in the Arsenal at Tsarskoe Selo

schematic for a lock system from Tsarskoe Selo
Williams, Holy City, after p. 503. [full resolution image]

Peterhof

In June–July 1846, Major and Anna Whistler, James, and Willie traveled by coach from St. Petersburg to Peterhof to attend the outdoor festivities at the Great Peterhof Palace celebrating the marriage of Grand Duchess Olga Nikolaevna to His Royal Highness Crown Prince Karl Friedrich Alexander of Württemberg.

Image 395

A verstmarker on the Peterhof Road, showing a verst number clearly

Marker for verst 22 on the Peterhof Road
D. Listopadov. Verstmarker on the Peterhof Road. 1990s. Photograph. Used with permission. [full resolution image]

Image 396

“All Who Mourn” was a mental asylum located at the seventh verst on the Peterhof Road, between Krasnyi Kabachok and Ligovo.

All Who Mourn mental asylum in 1834, with a horse and carriage on the road in front
General View of “All That Mourn” Hospital on the Peterhof Road in 1834. Engraving from a drawing by Aleksei Gornostaev (1808–1862). (Iurii M. Denisov, “Usad’ba XVIII veka na Petergofskoi doroge,” Arkhitekturnoe nasledstvo, 4 [1953], p. 148) [full resolution image]

Image 397

The Trinity-Sergius Monastery on the Peterhof Road, where the Whistlers attended a service in the summer of 1844

Trinity-Sergius Monastery in the 1840s, from the water, with boats in the foreground
View of the Trinity-Sergius Monastery on the Peterhof Road. 1840s. Lithograph. (Gorbatenko, Petergofskaia doroga, p. 194) [full resolution image]

Images 398, 399

The Strel’na Palace, belonging to His Imperial Highness Grand Duke Konstantin Nikolaevich, son of Nicholas I

Strel’na Palace with the lake in front
C. Schultz. The Strelna Palace. c. 1845. Lithograph from an original by Johann Jacob Meyer (1787–1858). (Meyer, Vues pittoresque des palais) [full resolution image]

Strel’na Palace with people and carriages on the grounds in front
Alexey Gornostayev (1808–1862). Palace in Strelna. 1847. Watercolor, gouache. 25.7 x 38 cm. State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg (ERR–5529). Photograph © The State Hermitage Museum.

Image 400

The Great Peterhof Palace is depicted by Aivazovskii as it was in 1844. The Samson fountain is in the left foreground. Figures fencing with water are in the middle ground. A view of the Great Cascade is below the palace.

Great Peterhof Palace with the cascade and the Samson fountain in front
Ivan Konstantinovich Aivazovskii (1817–1900). Great Peterhof Palace. 1844. Oil on canvas. 44.2 x 62.3 cm. Depository of the Peterhof Museum Preserve. [full resolution image]

Image 401

Ivory panel with relief depicting the coronation of Catherine I by Peter the Great in Moscow in 1724, which Anna Whistler admired in an unspecified building at Peterhof

Bas-relief of Peter the Great crowning Catherine the First
The Coronation of Catherine I. First half of 18th century. Rectangular ivory panel with relief. 16.3 x 12.3 cm. State Hermitage Museum, St. Petersburg (ERTh-2144). Photograph © The State Hermitage Museum.

Image 402

Terrace of the Monplazir Palace, in which Anna Whistler saw the personal nightclothes of Peter the Great

The patio of Mon Plazier, overlooking the water at twilight
The Terrace of the Monplazir Palace. Watercolor on paper. 17.7 x 26 cm. Fasanerie Archive, Eichenzell, Germany. (Dobler et al., Die mitgift einer Zarentochter, pp. 92–93)
[full resolution image]

Image 403

Peterhof Hermitage (Little Monplazir), where the Whistlers saw paintings of birds made by Peter the Great

The heritage at Peterhof, a square yellow-toned building with an arched entry with a red banner
The Hermitage at Peterhof. Watercolor on paper. 17.2 x 24 cm. Schloss Fasanerie Archive, Eichenzell, Germany. (Dobler et al., Die mitgift einer Zarentochter, pp. 92–93)
[full resolution image]

Other Excursions

Image 404

Plans for a trip to Lake Lagoda from St. Petersburg were discussed at some length by Anna Whistler’s friends, but it is not clear whether the trip ever took place.

Flat landscape of Lake Lagoda with two figures front centre, a cart and horse to the right, and boats on the lake to the left
Petr E. Zabolotskii (1803–1866). View of Old Ladoga. 1833. Oil on canvas. 25.9 x 44.8 in. (66 x 114 cm). State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg. [full resolution image]

Images 405a and 405b

The palace of Peter the Great at Ekateringof, which Anna Whistler, James, and Willie visited with a large party of friends, including the Gellibrands and Ropeses, in August 1844 from their dacha on the Peterhof Road

The palace of Peter the Great at Ekateringof, two storey building of wood, with two wings; trees on both sides and a circular space in front
The Palace of Peter I in Ekateringof. Mid-19th century. Engraving. (Batorevich, Ekateringof, p. 128) [full resolution image]

The palace of Peter the Great at Ekateringof, two storey building, showing stairs down to a courtyard
Domenico Trezzini [architect: c. 1670 –1734]; photograph by the “Education Society.” Old Ekateringof. c. 1911. Photograph. (G. Balitskii and N. Rusov, eds., Istoricheskaia panorama Sanktpeterburga i ego okrestnostei [Historical Panorama of St. Petersburg and Its Environs] [Moscow: Tipografiia Russkogo Tovarishchestva, 1911], plate 20) [full resolution image]

Image 406

In around 1825, Karl Gampel’n drew this panorama of the May Day celebrations at Ekateringof, depicting the promenade on foot or in carriages, when merchant-class attendees actually sought out potential wives.

Elaborate panorama of the Ekateringof Outdoor Festival, 1825
Carl Hampeln (c. 1794 – after 1880). Panorama of the Yekaterinhof Outdoor Festival on 1 May 1825. c. 1825. Colored aquatint. State Russian Museum, St. Petersburg.
[full resolution image]

Image 407

From their dacha on the Peterhof Road, Anna Whistler and her children took a ride with Joseph Samuel Ropes in the summer of 1844 on the Krasnoe Selo Road, which leads to Krasnyi Kabachok, a tavern famed in Russian history and literature. They did not, however, go to the tavern.

Traffic on the road to Krasnyi Kabachok: horses and sleighs and pedestrians in the snow
The Road to Krasnyi Kabachok. 1813. After a drawing by Alexander Zauerweid (1783–1844). Russian National Library, Moscow. [full resolution image]

Image 408

Luisa Kessenikh, a retired German solider, owned the Krasnyi Kabachok (Red, or Beautiful, Tavern) at Krasnoe Selo.

Luisa Kessenikh
Portrait of Luisa Kessenikh. 19th century. Drawing by an unknown artist. (Batorevich, Ekateringof, p. 163) [full resolution image]

Image 409

Elagin Island, location of the Alexander Palace, an Imperial summer residence, is referred to by Anna Whistler as the “Alargon.”

Alexander Palace on Elagin Island, side view
Nikanor Grigorievich Chernetsov (1805–1879). View of the Yelagin and Alexander Palace. 1839. Watercolor on card. Signed in Cyrillic and dated 1839. Private collection; sold at auction by Sotheby’s, 2 June 2015. [full resolution image]

Image 410

St. Nicholas Church in Kolpino, from which the miracle-working icon of St. Nicholas was brought annually on St Nicholas Day, to the small chapel some three miles away, where the holy image was said to have first appeared. St. Nicholas Church is on the left; the building on the right is the belltower of Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Saint Nicholas Church in Kolpino on the left with a rounded cupola; the bell tower of Holy Trinity Cathedral on the right
Church of St. Nicholas in Kolpino. (A. Vasiliev, “Puteshestvie po Rossii” [“A Journey Through Russia”], Illiustratsiia 34 [1845]: p. 133) [full resolution image]